iPhone 16 Pro Max Charge Port Replacement
Введение
Перейти к шагу 1This guide shows how to remove and replace the USB-C charge port in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.
If your port feels loose, or you experience connectivity or charging issues when you plug in your iPhone, you may need to replace your charge port.
Before you perform this repair, try cleaning the port first. You may not have a broken port—just a dirty one.
You'll need replacement microphone and back glass adhesives to complete this repair.
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Unplug any cables from your iPhone.
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Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.
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If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:iOpener$12.99
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
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Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
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Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
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Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.
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Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
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Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.
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Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.
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Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.
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Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.
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Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
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One 2.9 mm‑long screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long screw
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One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.
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Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.
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Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
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One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.
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Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.
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Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
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One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
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One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
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One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Insert the point of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker's bottom-right screw hole.
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Pry up and remove the loudspeaker.
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Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
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One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.
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Remove the bottom microphone.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.
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Insert the point of a spudger under one side of the charge port.
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Pry up gently to separate the gasket and lift the port up.
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Repeat on the other side to fully loosen the port.
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Remove the charge port.
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The two screw posts underneath the charge port have grounding clips on them. If the clips fell off, be sure to place them back onto their posts. The clips should face towards the bottom of the iPhone.
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Make sure the two black prongs are standing straight up. If they were bent when you removed the charge port, use the point of a spudger to carefully straighten them.
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Angle the bottom edge of the charge port into its recess and press the charge port in place.
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Use a pentalobe P2 driver to temporarily install the two external pentalobe screws.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the two 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the charge port to the frame.
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Peel the white liner from the microphone adhesive gasket
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Align the gasket to the frame's microphone cutout and use a spudger to press it in place.
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Remove the remaining liner from the adhesive.
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Insert the microphone at a downward angle into its recess before pressing it flat to the frame.
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Install the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
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One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Angle the bottom edge of the loudspeaker towards the frame.
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Press the loudspeaker into its recess.
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Install the four screws securing the loudspeaker:
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One 1.7 mm‑long Phillips screw
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One 1.5 mm‑long Phillips screw
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One 4.1 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.
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Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
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One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.
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Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.
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Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
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One 2.9 mm‑long screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long screw
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One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
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Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.
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If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a hair dryer or heat gun and try again.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.
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Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.
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Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
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Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
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Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
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Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
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When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.
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Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.
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Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
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Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
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Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.
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Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.
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Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.
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Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.
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Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
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Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.
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Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
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Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.
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Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.
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Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.
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Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.
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Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.
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Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.
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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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