iFixit should revisit this guide to reevaluate and clean it up a bit. In order to replace only the battery, steps 8, 9, 10, 11, 13 and 14 are not necessary, reducing the amount of damage risk involved. After removing the speaker screws in steps 12 and 15, the speakers can be easily swung up out of the way and set on the logic board, leaving them attached to their delicate connectors.

The Track Pad cable connector in step 17 should be disconnected, but not the other end of the cable at the ZIF connector, further reducing risk. The battery is easily removed and replaced from under the Track Pad Cable with only the upper end removed.

I should add that an actual connector puller is superior (in most cases) to using a spudger for removing these logic board connectors. I'd purchased mine from iFixit long ago, so not sure if they are still available.

Hey Marc! I'm sorry, but it's been many years since I've worked on these G4 iMacs. I'm straining my brain to remember the routing of the display cable. I would look at the connector ends, especially at the logic board where the socket can sometimes come loose from the board. I'm speaking generically here of all Macs. If it is a ribbon connector, make sure it is pushed in fully and/or the clamp is snapped down tightly. The delicate connection on the back of the display should be looked at if all else fails. Sometimes the cable itself is just bad, especially with many years of use and heat. Not sure if you can still source a new cable, if that is the cause of your issue.

I'm cheering you on for making this machine go for this many years! Good luck!

You’re welcome, George! I’m sorry that I hadn’t noticed your comment, years ago now. I hope that your SSD mod went well. Post a report if you can!

I never thought that I’d be required to use PB Blaster to remove computer screws. Had to use two tiny drops for each screw, letting it soak in for 20 minutes or so. The display screws, coated with blue thread lock, did not want to budge. I was so fearful that I would strip them using a T-6 driver. Ended up using a 1/4” drive ratchet with a T-6 bit, pressing down firmly and blocking the MacBook from turning with my elbows. I’ve had a lot of experience doing this kind of work, but wow!

Thanks Andy! Sorry, I just noticed your helpful reply. I somehow figured this out on my own.

I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.

Ah, never mind! I now see the rest of your comments. I hope you have (had?) the performance improvements that you were hoping for.

George, I just noticed your comment. How did your SSD upgrade go?

You should post your question in the forum to get a faster response. It’s been awhile since I’ve worked on this machine and don’t quite remember the LED indications. Doesn’t sound like an LCD issue.

The terminal command posted here to create a bootable drive installing High Sierra is not valid! Not a valid mount point.