Trying to find the UV/SpO2 sensor ribbon as the latter has failed on my Note 4.

Its failing the self test but the UV sensor is evidently still fine.

Also watch out, like many phones the OLED is glass and *very* easy to damage.

Xylene supposedly can help as the sticky regains its strength once this evaporates.

YMMV !!

Same here. In my case I have a pile of LCDs but the problem is most of them are the older type are CCFL backlit.

Unfortunately there aren’t that many applications for a CCFL VGA 14.1” panel but anyone who does come up with one please message me “darnstadium

Supposedly these can also run DooM but the bigger problem is not supporting larger >4GB flash cards.

Its possible to patch the FW but this breaks other things.

I’ve hacked an 8GB onto mine and it did actually format but only when zerofilled and cloned from a working 4GB card.

Where would I obtain a casing? have an iPod mini MB and connector, as well as numerous CF cards. Supposedly anything up to a 16GB will work, but has to support certain functions. I later found out that some older cards were not in fact “633x” and this was simply marketing. These days the biggest problem is getting batteries for these as they are EOL so unless they are new unused stock will have degraded in storage.

Hi, incidentally think the problem with some YLOD is actually not the same. To check, always try the console without the HDD AND memory reader fitted. This typically forces it into recovery mode and will usually result in some sort of display permitting further diagnostics.

Also useful, I found that many old graphics cards have iron containing pads on the memory chips and to a lesser degree GPU, potentially allowing things like induction reflow. It still needs preheating but has potential as a less invasive repair technique as can be controlled more precisely than the heat gun, and often the pads that are bad can be reflowed with some knowledge of where they are without doing them all.

Might need an induction shunt or special mu metal shield on the inductors or simply use a different frequency than usual.

I “invented” this method as a way to get a DL machine on the cheap by repairing broken 1080 Ti’s but it turned out the faults on these are different and harder to repair.

Same here, incidentally where can I get replacement batteries please? Also have a “Picolo” heli with a bad feedback IC , supposedly this part can also be replaced on some units as its a soldered vertical board on the main.

Hi, incidentally failure to POST can also be caused by the following.

1) conductive debris or bent/shorting pins in the HDMI or USB3 ports, common to many other machines including Acer tablet PCs.

2) sometimes there is a tiny inline filter next to the optical drive. If it falls off the board or otherwise fails the track right next to it can corrode, knocking out the +V supply for the USBs and optical drive. If you take out the optical drive and the machine then boots up fine then this is most likely your problem, seen this twice now. Galvanic corrosion maybe?

3) completely dead or damaged battery caused by bad DC jack. Normally the power light blinks 3 times but not always. Replacing these items normally works.

4) Stuffed BIOS. Rare but it happens, alas Sony didn’t include a CRISIS recovery option. Replacement chip is doable as its an 8 pin WSOP-8 and the Chipquik method works well.

Note: a good test for broken OLED is to shine a UV light at it.

Broken units typically do not fluoresce corectly and show red “patches” where water has got in.

If you compare with a known good unit the difference is very obvious.

Note: if someone has changed the glass and used third party LOCA it will light up blue not white!

If anyone has a fix for the brickbug please let me know. I did get most of the data off just before it carked it but alas

looks like the most recent pictures are toast.

Trying to fix my “brickbug” one now. Yes the screen is a complete PITA.

Maybe a hint though, pushing on the battery compartment can break the screen and this is a known issue with the S6 and its

puffy battery of doom (tm) TWO bad units here.

Incidentally it does appear that the thermal compound does not work as well over time so worth doing a repaste at least

in principle: ripping it out and replacing with nice fresh pad may be viable.

Obviously do not use 3mm thick stuff as this will damage it, those clearances are very small.

I did this fix on an S3 once and it did run better afterwards though eventually died due to a battery issue.

Cough I *HATE* PMICs /Cough.