Ice Maker Leaking

The water supply enters the rear of the ice maker through the fill valve and releases water through a tube into the cup that funnels water into the ice mold. If the fill valve or fill tube and fill cup appear misaligned, water is going to spill out and miss the ice cube mold. Realign and verify alignment by initiating the water-filling process. In some cases, your cup may need replacing.

The condensation drain allows excess water in the freezer to exit. Your machine may run a defrost cycle which will create more water in your system. If the drain freezes, this water will freeze in your system.

Open the freezer and verify the defrost drain isn't blocked by items.
- Move objects in the freezer to allow for more airflow, and wait a few days to see if the issue is resolved.
Check the drain for blockages from crumbs or ice. Remove the plastic cover over the drain hole.
- Use air to blow the lines clear, if possible.
- Melt any built-up ice with a hairdryer on low, or use a turkey baster and funnel for flushing warm water down the defrost drain.

The ice maker will typically fill with water for about 8 seconds per tray. Try resetting the ice maker and watch if this is the case. In some cases you can adjust the level.

If the water inlet valve was recently replaced, verify it is the correct part.
Take the cover off of the modular ice maker control unit and locate the fill adjustment screw. Turn the screw no more than one full turn and run another ice harvest cycle.

If the ice cube tray is broken, or unable to eject the ice cubes, then the tray will overflow and lead to leaking water.

Inspect and replace broken ice cube trays or ice maker assemblies.

Your water supply line joins the water inlet valve before being dosed into the ice cube trays. If the water inlet valve is stuck in an open position, even just barely, it will continuously fill. It is time to test the valve.

This is also an appropriate time to check supply line water pressure. The valve needs at least 20 psi so that it'll close properly after opening.

Pull your fridge away from the wall. Turn your supply water off.
Throw a towel down, and then disconnect the water inlet valve.
Put the supply hose in a bucket or nearby sink, and open the supply valve. Water should come out with a decent pressure — we're talking 20+ psi.
Now, use a multimeter and test the water inlet valve for continuity.
- Resistance should read between 500-1.5KΩ.

If water doesn't find the condensation drain, then it will either freeze or drain in undesirable locations. Check the level of your machine and adjust the feet and shim if necessary.

A filter that hasn't been changed in 6 or more months may be causing machine faults.

Replace the filter and run another cycle.
If water is leaking from the water filter housing, verify the filter is inserted entirely. Next check that the hoses are inserted entirely and aren't cracking.

Interruption in the flow of water through the water line leading to the ice maker can account for leaking water. This usually means disconnection of lines or failing connections. Inspect the valves, water lines, and connectors for leaks. Replace and tighten as you go.